In the ever-changing, evolving and dynamic world of fashion, where trends change as swiftly as the seasons, some collections transcend the ephemeral, grounding us in a sense of history and identity. Rizman Ruzaini's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Dubai Fashion Week, aptly named "Mustika," is one such offering—a rich narrative of nostalgia, cultural homage, and meticulous craftsmanship that takes us on a journey through time.
Treading A Journey into "Mustika”
The name "Mustika" is inspired by the character in the 1999 Malaysian film “Perempuan Melayu Terakhir” (“The Last Malay Woman”), directed by Erma Fatima. This cinematic gem explores the tension between preserving cultural heritage and embracing modernity, a theme that resonates deeply with the collection. In Malay, "mestika" refers to a precious stone or something deeply cherished—a fitting metaphor for the exquisite pieces that Rizman Ruzaini has crafted.
Brimming Of Nostalgia in Every Stitch
The creative spark for this collection was ignited by a serendipitous moment: Ruzaini Jamil, Creative Director of Rizman Ruzaini, rediscovered an old photograph of his late grandmother, Tok Puteh Surin. The image, which captured Tok Puteh and her friends in the 1950s, dressed in elegant kebaya and batik sarongs, evoked a sense of timeless grace. This photograph not only transported Ruzaini back to a pre-independence era but also inspired him to bring that era's style to life in the SS25 collection.
The kebaya, a traditional blouse-dress combination worn by women in the Nusantara region, takes center stage in this collection. It’s a garment steeped in history, with roots that date back centuries. Rizman Ruzaini has reimagined the kebaya with a modern twist, yet each piece retains the essence of its rich heritage.
A Cinematic Tribute to Some of the Iconic Films:
Ruzaini’s inspiration didn’t stop at family memories; it extended to the silver screen. Iconic films like “Penarek Becha” (1955) and “Rachun Dunia” (1950) showcase the kebaya in all its cinematic glory, immortalized by beloved Malay actors such as P. Ramlee, Saadiah, and Kasma Booty. These classic films, which hold a special place in the hearts of many Malaysians, served as a muse for the collection. The result is a line of garments that echo the elegance of these filmic masterpieces while offering a fresh perspective on a traditional staple.
The Art of Embroidery
In a nod to the evolution of the kebaya, the collection highlights the intricate embroidery that became a hallmark of the garment in the 1940s. Malay and Jawi Peranakan communities favored plant motifs, while Chinese Peranakan kebayas often featured animal designs—a reflection of their cultural symbolism. Rizman Ruzaini’s SS25 collection honors these traditions while introducing contemporary touches, including tambour beading and machine embroidery, which elevate the batik sarongs and kebayas to new heights of sophistication.
A Wondrous Celebration of Batik
No exploration of Southeast Asian fashion would be complete without batik, and Rizman Ruzaini’s collection gives it the spotlight it deserves. Batik, a time-honored textile art form, is celebrated throughout the Nusantara region and has been embraced by generations of artisans and fashion lovers alike. The SS25 collection integrates batik sarong motifs into its designs, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation. The brand’s use of batik in tandem with contemporary embroidery techniques underscores its commitment to honoring heritage while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion.
Who’s the brains behind the business? It’s Rizman Ruzaini!
Since its founding in 2005, Rizman Ruzaini has grown from a small startup into a major player in Malaysia's fashion industry. Led by designers Rizman Nordin and Ruzaini Jamil, the brand has built a reputation for its signature silhouettes, attention to detail, and commitment to quality. Today, Rizman Ruzaini is poised to take its place on the global stage, with plans to expand into the Middle East and Europe. At the same time, the brand is embracing sustainability, ensuring that its future growth is as responsible as it is stylish.
With the "Mustika" collection, Rizman Ruzaini invites us to reflect on the beauty of our shared cultural heritage. Through each piece, we are reminded that fashion is not just about the present moment; it’s a conversation between the past and the future, a celebration of where we come from and where we are going. The collection is a timeless tribute to the elegance of the kebaya and the enduring allure of batik—a sartorial masterpiece that bridges generations and unites us in our shared love for the beauty of tradition.